
The Maltese way to start a meal is not one plate each. It is five plates in the middle and everyone reaching.
Order starters one each and you have had a starter. Order five for the table and you have started an evening. The second way is the Maltese way, and it is not close.
What to put in the middle
Bigilla, thick and garlicky, with galletti to break into it. Ġbejniet from Gozo — the little sheep's cheeselets, fresh or peppered, depending on your nerve. Bebbux when the season is right. Octopus. Sun-dried tomatoes and olives that actually taste of something.
The trick is ordering one more than you think you need, because the table always eats faster than it expects to, and because there is no sadder moment in a Maltese meal than an empty bigilla dish with bread left over.
Nothing on this part of the menu is meant to stay in front of one person.
Order starters one each and you have had a starter. Order five for the table and you have started an evening. The second way is the Maltese way, and it is not close.
What to put in the middle
Bigilla, thick and garlicky, with galletti to break into it. Ġbejniet from Gozo — the little sheep's cheeselets, fresh or peppered, depending on your nerve. Bebbux when the season is right. Octopus. Sun-dried tomatoes and olives that actually taste of something.
The trick is ordering one more than you think you need, because the table always eats faster than it expects to, and because there is no sadder moment in a Maltese meal than an empty bigilla dish with bread left over.
Nothing on this part of the menu is meant to stay in front of one person.
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