The evenings are getting their edge back, the fish is changing and the kitchen is turning towards autumn. A short note on what we are cooking now.
Late August in Malta is a strange, good week. The heat is still here but it has lost its argument, the evenings come earlier, and the kitchen starts to look forward rather than back.
The fish is the first thing to change. The lampuki have started, which means the grill gets busier and the menu moves almost daily depending on what the boats bring in. Tomatoes and marrows are still at their best, so the vegetable dishes stay bright a little longer.
What the kitchen is turning to
Slow cooking comes back from here. Rabbit braised long and low. Beef olives with a sauce that has had time to think about itself. The dishes that make no sense in July and all the sense in the world once the sun goes down at a civilised hour.
Nothing on the menu is there because the calendar said so. It is there because it is good right now.
Open every day, noon till midnight, in the heart of Paceville.
Late August in Malta is a strange, good week. The heat is still here but it has lost its argument, the evenings come earlier, and the kitchen starts to look forward rather than back.
The fish is the first thing to change. The lampuki have started, which means the grill gets busier and the menu moves almost daily depending on what the boats bring in. Tomatoes and marrows are still at their best, so the vegetable dishes stay bright a little longer.
What the kitchen is turning to
Slow cooking comes back from here. Rabbit braised long and low. Beef olives with a sauce that has had time to think about itself. The dishes that make no sense in July and all the sense in the world once the sun goes down at a civilised hour.
Nothing on the menu is there because the calendar said so. It is there because it is good right now.
Open every day, noon till midnight, in the heart of Paceville.
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