The Main Courses Worth the Drive to Paceville

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Rabbit, beef olives, suckling pig, lamb off the bone. The dishes people book a table for, and what makes each one worth the trip.

Nobody drives to Paceville for a starter. They come for the plate that arrives in the middle of the table and stops the conversation for a second.

Here is what that plate usually is.

The four that carry the menu

Rabbit, braised slowly in wine and garlic until it gives up entirely. Bragoli — beef olives, rolled around egg and breadcrumb, in a sauce that has had all afternoon to think about itself. Suckling pig for the table that came to celebrate something. And lamb, slow-cooked until a fork is more than enough cutlery.

None of it is quick food. That is rather the point. These are dishes that were invented for households where lunch started at one and finished when it finished.

If a kitchen cooks rabbit properly, it cooks everything properly. It is the honest test.

Open every day, from a quarter to noon until a quarter to midnight, in the heart of Paceville.

See the main courses

Nobody drives to Paceville for a starter. They come for the plate that arrives in the middle of the table and stops the conversation for a second.

Here is what that plate usually is.

The four that carry the menu

Rabbit, braised slowly in wine and garlic until it gives up entirely. Bragoli — beef olives, rolled around egg and breadcrumb, in a sauce that has had all afternoon to think about itself. Suckling pig for the table that came to celebrate something. And lamb, slow-cooked until a fork is more than enough cutlery.

None of it is quick food. That is rather the point. These are dishes that were invented for households where lunch started at one and finished when it finished.

If a kitchen cooks rabbit properly, it cooks everything properly. It is the honest test.

Open every day, from a quarter to noon until a quarter to midnight, in the heart of Paceville.

See the main courses